Friday, January 29, 2010
Holding Stitches
When a pattern calls for putting stitches on a stitch holder and you don't have one, use a double pointed needle instead. Stretch a rubber band figure 8 like around the ends of the needle to hold the stitches. When you come back to knit those stitches, they are already on a needle ready to knit.
What Round Was I Knitting?
To keep track of rows and/or increases and decreases when knitting in the round, knit the same number of stitches past the beginning of round marker as the row you are on. So if you are on row 5, knit 5 stitches of that round so when you pick up your work again, you can count the stitches beyond the marker and know what row you should be knitting.
Knitting Magazines
If you've started to accumulate knitting magazines, here's a way to find the pattern you know youro have a year or two later. When you receive the magazine, make a copy of the cover and the table of contents and keep it in a 3 ring binder. If it's a magazine like Creative Knitting, make a copy of the back inside page where there are photos of all the projects in that magazine. Make a tabbed divider for each magazine subscription you own or else keep a separate 3 ring binder for each subscription so you could store multiple years in one binder.
To take this system a step further, note on the table of contents which patterns interested you and for whom you intended to make the item. You could also note yardage needed and type of yarn used (from your stash of course!) so when you are ready to start a new project, it’s easy to begin. Another option is to use the Ravelry Library and build your collection electronically with links to the various websites of those magazines.
To take this system a step further, note on the table of contents which patterns interested you and for whom you intended to make the item. You could also note yardage needed and type of yarn used (from your stash of course!) so when you are ready to start a new project, it’s easy to begin. Another option is to use the Ravelry Library and build your collection electronically with links to the various websites of those magazines.
Saving Your Socks Heels and Toes
Use a strand of silk sewing thread with your sock yarn when knitting socks to help keep heels and toes from wearing out. You could also use wooly nylon thread.
Taming Yarn While Traveling
If you have a shake/mocha/latte cup that has the clear plastic dome with the center hole in it, recycle it as a yarn ball holder when you are traveling. They are the perfect size to hold a smaller ball of yarn that you’re working with - just run the yarn end out thru the top hole, and that little ball of yarn can just bobble all around inside the cup and never fall out.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Ripping Out & Picking Up Stockinette Rows
If you need to rip out stockinette stitches more rows back than you want to tink, insert a smaller sized needle into the front leg (right half) of each stitch in the last correct row so those stitches will be aligned right on the needles when you start knitting again. Even if you happen to pick up the back leg of the stitches, just knit into the back or realign the stitch on the needle when you start knitting that row again.
Crochet Cast-On
This crochet cast on method is easy and works well for most applications. One advantage to crochet cast on is there is no right or wrong side unlike the knitted on, cable and long tail cast on methods.
An easy way to do this cast on method is to make a slip knot with yarn and place it on the crochet hook. With yarn going under your knitting needle, draw up a loop using the crochet hook. This will create a stitch on the knitting needle. Continue to draw up loops until there is 1 less number of required sts are on needle. Put remain loop from crochet hook on to the knitting needle.
An easy way to do this cast on method is to make a slip knot with yarn and place it on the crochet hook. With yarn going under your knitting needle, draw up a loop using the crochet hook. This will create a stitch on the knitting needle. Continue to draw up loops until there is 1 less number of required sts are on needle. Put remain loop from crochet hook on to the knitting needle.
Continental Ribbing
Ribbing on European made clothing usually has a continental rib. To do this, knit into the back of the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches normally when working a k1, p1 rib. This is called a "twisted rib" and has a little more elasticity and a more raised rib.
Keeping Track of Increases With Split Ring Markers
If you need to keep track of increases or decreases when knitting sleeves or other shaped areas, link together split ring markers. If you increase or decrease on the 6th row, use 5 green markers and 1 red marker and link together to make a circle. Every time you knit a row, move so the next marker is on your needle. When you get to the red marker, it's time to knit the increase or decrease. Hopefully with this aid you won't forget which row you are on when you put down your knitting.
Right Direction for Fiber
When you are working with yarn and threads, they have a "right" way direction. When you pull the yarn from the middle of the skein, the threads coming from the yarn are going downward when you run your fingers down the yarn and will feel smooth. This is usually the right direction to work with the yarn.
If you take the other tail and run your fingers down the yarn you will see lots of tails sticking out and it will feel a little rougher. Using the yarn in this direction makes it more likely to twist and knot. Yarn can be used in either direction, just be aware and always use the yarn in the same direction for multiple skein projects.
If you take the other tail and run your fingers down the yarn you will see lots of tails sticking out and it will feel a little rougher. Using the yarn in this direction makes it more likely to twist and knot. Yarn can be used in either direction, just be aware and always use the yarn in the same direction for multiple skein projects.
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Making Ribbing Look Seamless
To make separate piece ribbing seams look like they were knitted in the round, make sure you knit your ribbing this way.
•For K1, P1 ribbing, use an even number of stitches. On wrong side rows, P1, K1 to the last 2 stitches and end with P2. On the right side rows, start with K2 and then repeat the P1, K1 ribbing to the end of the row.
•For K2, P2 ribbing, use a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2 stitches (i.e., 42 stitches). Knit the wrong side rows using P1 to start, then repeat the K2, P2 ribbing to the last stitch and end with a P1. The right side rows start with K1 and then repeat the P2, K2 ribbing to the last stitch which will be a K1.
When sewn together, the seam will be invisible.
•For K1, P1 ribbing, use an even number of stitches. On wrong side rows, P1, K1 to the last 2 stitches and end with P2. On the right side rows, start with K2 and then repeat the P1, K1 ribbing to the end of the row.
•For K2, P2 ribbing, use a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2 stitches (i.e., 42 stitches). Knit the wrong side rows using P1 to start, then repeat the K2, P2 ribbing to the last stitch and end with a P1. The right side rows start with K1 and then repeat the P2, K2 ribbing to the last stitch which will be a K1.
When sewn together, the seam will be invisible.
Fun Fur Scarves
If you make fun fur scarves, use a soft-bristle brush, like a nail brush, to gently go over each stitch several times in different directions when you have finished knitting. The fur will fluff up and make your project really soft, full and fluffy
Picking Up Neckline or Armhole Stitches
When picking up stitches on a neckline or armhole, pick up as many stitches as necessary to make the neckline/armhole look neat without any holes. Then make sure your stitch count is evenly divided by placing markers at intervals and counting the stitches between each set of markers. Adjust the number of stitches accordingly on the first row or round.
Mesh Yarn Bras
If you like to use a yarn "bra" but want to save your $$ for purchasing yarn instead, use the plastic mesh bags that veggies are packaged in. Cut off the tag end and fit the mesh over your yarn. They are especially useful if you are using 2 strands of yarn and want to keep them together.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Remembering Easy Patterns
If you are knitting a 1 or 2 row pattern that you only work on occasionally (like the project you keep handy for times when you have to wait), tape the pattern around the needle close to the size cap end of your straight needles so you can easily remember it whenever you get a chance to work on that project.
Mobile Patterns
For those of you who have an Ipod or email ready mobile phone, scan or download your pattern, email it to yourself and carry it on your phone. Never torn, crumpled or lost and makes it super mobile!
What Size Needle Do I Use For This Yarn?
If you are trying to figure out what gauge you would get by combining two or three yarns, here are a couple of tricks to help.
Math version: Add the stitches per inch together of the proposed yarns, and divide by 3.
Example 1: Combine 2 strands of fingering (sock). If each strand of fingering knits up at 7 st/in, the math is 7+7=14, 14/3=4.7, so the combined yarns are about worsted weight. If each strand of fingering knits up at 8 st/in, the math is 8 + 8 = 16, 16/3=5.3 so the yarns combine to a DK weight.
Example 2: Combine 1 strand of worsted and 1 strand of fingering. The worsted knits at 5 st/in and the fingering at 8 st/in. The math: 5 + 8 = 13; 13/3 = 4.3 st/in or a nice Aran equivalent.
Hands-on version: Take a knit gauge and thread the selected yarns through the hole which just fits the yarn. This gives you the needle size to use.
Math version: Add the stitches per inch together of the proposed yarns, and divide by 3.
Example 1: Combine 2 strands of fingering (sock). If each strand of fingering knits up at 7 st/in, the math is 7+7=14, 14/3=4.7, so the combined yarns are about worsted weight. If each strand of fingering knits up at 8 st/in, the math is 8 + 8 = 16, 16/3=5.3 so the yarns combine to a DK weight.
Example 2: Combine 1 strand of worsted and 1 strand of fingering. The worsted knits at 5 st/in and the fingering at 8 st/in. The math: 5 + 8 = 13; 13/3 = 4.3 st/in or a nice Aran equivalent.
Hands-on version: Take a knit gauge and thread the selected yarns through the hole which just fits the yarn. This gives you the needle size to use.
Which Needles Should I Use?
Bamboo needles. Bamboo is warm to the touch, strong, and tends to be lighter than aluminum. As bamboo has a slight grip, knitted stitches remain in place and bamboo makes for an excellent beginner needle. The material also lends itself to working will with arthritic hands. Bamboo needles are excellent for all types of yarn, especially smoother and lighter weight yarns. Bamboo needles are more flexible than metal, but less than casein or plastic needles. In smaller sizes, however, bamboo can bend or break.
Metal needles are the heaviest needles, but are stronger and do not easily bend. Metal needles are cold to the touch and slippery. More experienced knitters sometimes prefer them, because the stitches move quickly on the highly polished surface. These are not the best needles for beginning knitters, as stitches can quickly slip off the needle's tip. Metal needles are good for all types of yarn types and weights, especially wool, wool blends, and acrylic. The most common types of metal needles are aluminum, steel, and nickel-plated. Newer stainless steel needles like the Signature and Addi Turbo’s are now available.
Plastic needles used to be readily available and very popular. They are smooth, sleek, and stitches move quickly. Plastic needles are very flexible. Larger size needles are often made from plastic to reduce their weight. Plastic needles are excellent for all types of yarn and yarn weights.
Wooden needles are smooth but not slippery, making them a great choice for beginning knitters and when using slippery yarns. The finishes are different depending on the brand. These needles come in a variety of woods, the best being made of hardwoods. In very small sizes, like bamboo, wooden needles can break disappointingly easily.
Metal needles are the heaviest needles, but are stronger and do not easily bend. Metal needles are cold to the touch and slippery. More experienced knitters sometimes prefer them, because the stitches move quickly on the highly polished surface. These are not the best needles for beginning knitters, as stitches can quickly slip off the needle's tip. Metal needles are good for all types of yarn types and weights, especially wool, wool blends, and acrylic. The most common types of metal needles are aluminum, steel, and nickel-plated. Newer stainless steel needles like the Signature and Addi Turbo’s are now available.
Plastic needles used to be readily available and very popular. They are smooth, sleek, and stitches move quickly. Plastic needles are very flexible. Larger size needles are often made from plastic to reduce their weight. Plastic needles are excellent for all types of yarn and yarn weights.
Wooden needles are smooth but not slippery, making them a great choice for beginning knitters and when using slippery yarns. The finishes are different depending on the brand. These needles come in a variety of woods, the best being made of hardwoods. In very small sizes, like bamboo, wooden needles can break disappointingly easily.
Monday, January 25, 2010
Finding Knitting Shops Worldwide
In case you happen to be traveling, here’s a link to knitting stores all over the world (also available on your I-phone too!). Click on the title to find a location near you.
Finishing Tops of Caps
When you get to the top of a hat and it seems to puff up with too much yarn and stitches, use a smaller needle for the last few rounds.
Keeping Track of Increases
To help keep track of how many increases you have completed in a row, slip an open or clip type marker on each increased stitch. It’s easy to count the markers to know how many increases you have completed.
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