Cast-On at End of Row

If you are instructed to cast on at the end of a row in the middle of your knitting, there are several ways to do it. You could use a knitted cast-on or you could insert a crochet hook in the edge stitch in the 2nd row below the last stitch that is on your needle. Make a loose chain the number of stitches required to cast on. Remove hook and insert free needle into the last loop to make 1 stitch. Pick up a stitch in each loop (back where you started the cast-on) and then continue to knit across.

Placing Holding Stitches on Ribbon

If you want to try on a garment, place the stitches on a piece of satin ribbon and tie the ends together. So if you are trying on a top down sweater, put the body stitches on the ribbon leaving plenty of length, tie the ends of the ribbon together and try on the sweater. To make it extra easy, put those stitches back on a needle a few sizes smaller remembering to knit onto the right sized needle when you start knitting again.

Cable Needles

If you still have the old style plastic hair picks (or beg a couple from your hairdresser), they make good cable needles. You can push them into the yarn while holding the cable stitches and while you store the needles between making cables.

Center Wound Yarn Balls

Another way to make a center pull yarn ball: Start with medicine pill bottle, put end of yarn inside and snap the lid closed. Wind yarn around bottle keeping it below the bottle cap. When finished, remove bottle releasing the end of yarn and pull from center. The ball will stand and not roll when using.

Know Your Stash

For those of you detailed enough to upload your stash on Ravelry, you can save your listing to an Excel spreadsheet by clicking the small Excel icon on the right hand side (next to the Search button) of the stash section in your Ravelry notebook. It makes a nice, compact printout to know what you already own. An example is shown.

Buttonbands

To stabilize the button band of a cardigan, sew clear small buttons on the inside of the band behind the decorative buttons that are on the outside of your cardigan

Yarn Bobbins

To make yarn bobbins, cut 2”x4” pieces from plastic canvas. Then cut a notch in both the top and bottom of the piece. Wrap your yarn around the canvas using the notches as guides. You can secure the ends of the yarn through the holes in the plastic canvas.

Easy Fair Isle

If you have a hard time knitting Fair Isle using both hands, use this easy method instead. Knit one round using just color A and slip the other stitches with yarn in back making sure they are stretched out just enough to lay flat. Then knit the next round using just Color B and slip the color A stitches purlwise with yarn in back. Two rounds knitted this way covers 1 row in a charted design.

Neater Cuffs on Sleeves

To make neat cuffs on a sweater that is knit flat, either knit the sleeves down to the cuffs or use a provisional cast on and knit from the top of the cuffs to the top of the sleeve. Sew the seams using a mattress stitch. Then pick up the cuff stitches and knit in the round using double pointed needles or 2 circulars so you have a seamless cuff.

Slip Stitch Edges

Use a slip stitch as a decorative front edge on sweaters or the edge of scarves and afghans but never use it where you are going to sew a seam such as on sweater front and back or sleeve pieces. It’s not a strong enough edging to hold a seam stable.

Long Tail Cast-On

The most common cast on method is the long tail. To make sure you have enough yarn, use the general rule of 4 times the length of the hem of whatever you are knitting as your guide.

Yarn Storage

Short of yarn storage space? Use fish stringer lines and use the snap hook part of the chain to hang yarn skeins.

Bindoff

To keep from having a pointed nub at the end of your cast off stitches (especially when making scarves), don’t work the last stitch at all. Just slip the last stitch and then finish by pulling the yarn through that stitch and weaving it to hide the tail.

Bulky Wool Yarn Joining

If you need to join bulky wool yarn, use needle felting tools to marry the ends together so they felt together. You’ll save length, eliminate knots, and give the project a seamless look.

Felting and Shaping

After felting an item, if you need to shape it, steam it. Steam, stretch and shape and re-steam if needed. It’s the washing agitation and shock of cold water that actually felts and shrinks an item, not the steam.

Edge Stitches

When you have a project where you’d like an attractive chain stitch edging (like a scarf, dishcloth or the front edge of a sweater), slip the first stitch of every row to eliminate the edge bump.

If the first stitch is a knit, with yarn in front, insert your needle as if to purl and slip the stitch. Then move the yarn to the back (between the 1st and 2nd stitches) and continue knitting the next stitch. If the next stitch should be a purl, keep the yarn in front and continue purling like normal.

If the first stitch is a purl, insert your needle as if to knit with yarn in back and slip the stitch. Move the yarn to the front and continue to purl. This will create a chain edge.

HOWEVER, do not use this technique if the edges are to be sewn together such as in sweater pieces. In that case, you would want a sturdier edge and would knit or purl the edge stitches in pattern.

Blocking Circular Shaped Knitting Projects

To block a circular project, pin the center of the project to your blocking board, attach a cord (like dental floss or smooth cotton yarn) around the outside edge. Measure from the center to the outside edge while you pin the edge using the cord as your guide to make sure it ends up round and not oval shaped.

Binding Off

To keep bound off stitches from being too tight and pulling in your project (or not being able get a sweater over your head), use a needle 1 or 2 sizes bigger to bind off. The nature of bound off stitches is non-elastic so make sure you either knit very loosely or use a bigger needle.

Threading Beads Onto Yarn

Use a dental floss threader as a needle when stringing beads onto yarn. They look like a giant embroidery needle and are very flexible. Put your yarn in the loop as if you were threading the needle. Pick up the bead and slide it down over the loop which will collapse and you can pull the bead on to the yarn. This works especially well if you have a tight fit between the bead and the yarn.

Scarf Edge Stitches

To make a pretty scarf selvedge edging, the easiest is to slip the first stitch of every row purlwise which makes the edge look like a chain stitch. Another edge idea is to add 8 stitches to your cast-on. Then k1, yo, k2tog at the beginning of every row or k2tog, yo at the beginning of every row.

Casting on in the Middle of a Row

Most times when you have a pocket or buttonhole to insert in your project, the pattern will say to cast on a certain number of stitches while you are in the middle of the row. It’s easily done if you turn your work around (wrong side toward you) and use a knitted on or backward loop cast on method. Then turn your work so it’s front facing again and continue to knit.

Yarn Weights

If you have the perfect pattern but not quite the right yarn to get started, use this general guide:
If you double lace weight yarn, you’ll get close to sport weight;
Doubling fingering weight gives DK weight;
Doubling sport weight gives worsted weight;
Doubling worsted weight gives super bulky weight.
Or you could use the problem as an excuse to go yarn shopping!

Casting On Using Double Pointed Needles

When using double pointed needles, instead of dividing your stitches among 3 or 4 needles when you cast on, use just 2 needles. You can knit the first couple of rounds on 2 needles no matter how many stitches you have. Then divide your stitches onto 3 or 4 needles. This will make it easier to make sure you don’t have twisted stitches.

Buttons and Buttonholes

If you are knitting a cardigan and want to make sure the placement of the buttons are exactly opposite the buttonholes, knit both fronts at the same time and knit a reverse stitch or another marking stitch on the button band in the same row as you make your buttonholes on the buttonhole band. Sew your button over the marked stitch.

Stretchy Cast On Edge

For most knitters, it’s easier to make a stretchy bind off than cast on edge so if a tight cast on is a problem for you, try this. Use a provisional cast-on, then come back later, pick up those stitches and bind off.

Gauge Problems

Usually, if you can get the right number of stitches per inch but have too many rows per inch, your yarn is too thin. If you can get the right number of stitches per inch but have too few rows per inch, your yarn is too thick.

Bind Off In Ribbing

To make a smoother bind-off in ribbing, always have your yarn in the back of the stitches whenever you pull the finished stitch over to bind off. So after a purl stitch, move the yarn to the back before slipping the stitch off the right-hand needle

Creating Scarves

An easy way to create a scarf is to look at all of the free dishcloth patterns available online. Most are about 8” wide which is a good size for a scarf. Just add a 3 stitch garter border and knit to length.

Decreasing Slants - k2tog or ssk

If you have a hard time remembering when to use a k2tog and when to use a ssk while decreasing when using a chart, here’s a tip for you. The symbols on the chart follow the shape of how you work the stitch so use this guide:
/ follows the curve of the number 2 so you k2tog (knit two stitches together)
\ follows the curve of the letter S so you ssk
(slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip 1 stitch knitwise (or purlwise), then knit both of those stitches together through the back loop)

Blocking Acrylic Fibers

Blocking really finishes your knitting projects. Even if you are not using natural fibers, blocking is possible. Check out this link (http://beadknitterpatterns.blogspot.com/2009/11/how-to-block-acrylic.html) to block acrylics which will show you a before and after blocking photo along with detailed blocking instructions. Or click the title of this post to see the article.

Ribbing Transition

For a good looking transition from ribbing to stockinette or a pattern in the main portion of your garment, on the last ribbing row, SLIP every knit stitch purlwise and purl every purl ribbing stitch. On the next row, change to a larger size needle and begin the body of the garment.

Circular Needle Bind-Off

When binding off using circular needles, most times there will be a noticeable edge where the first and last stitch meet. To take care of that, using the tail of your yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, insert needle into the first bound-off chain to the left of the first stitch. Go under both loops of that chain, then insert the tapestry needle back down into the last chain (which is where your yarn tail came from). Pull slightly to even out and then weave the end into the back of your work.

Connecting Circular Knitting

To connect circular knitting, use “bulldog” type clips or snap type clothespins. After casting on, clip the stitches every few inches so the stitches will all hang downward and you can connect your circle being confident it will not become a mobius piece unintentionally.

Knitting With Circulars

If you are a tight knitter and sometimes have trouble on circulars getting your stitches to move up to the left needle tip, interchangeable needles are made for you. The needle on the right determines the gauge of your project so you can use a smaller needle on the left and have those stitches slide easily. You’ll knit faster and your hands will appreciate the break.

Felting Mittens

An easy way to felt mittens for yourself is to use a double sink. Fill one side with cold water and one side with hot water. Add a little soap or shampoo to the hot water. Put the mittens on your hands and wash your hands with the mittens on, alternating between the hot and cold water until they fit. Rinse in warm water, take the mittems off, shape with plastic bags inside of them and let them dry.

Sewing Seams

If you need to sew seams together, use a sewing pressing ham. The knitting pieces will stay in place and the ham is curved just enough to let you easily pick up the seam edges for a mattress stitch seam. You can also sew while it is in your lap or on the tabletop.

Variegated Yarn

When knitting a project using variegated yarn, make sure you pull from the skein the same way (i.e., from the outside or from the center) for the entire project. There's a distinct diffeence in how the color patterning appears with most variegated yarns.

Beginner Knitters

If you are new to knitting, make your first project using variegated yarn. The changing colors will make it much easier to see your stitches.

Smooth Transition to Ribbing

If you want to create a smooth line for ribbing when knitting a top down sweater, on the last round before the ribbing, change to a smaller sized needle which is usually 2 sizes smaller than the body of the sweater. Work one round of the body stitches (stockinette or pattern). On the first round of ribbing, SLIP every knit stitch and purl the purl stitches. On the next round, knit the normal ribbing stitches to the desired length.

Bind Off Using A Crochet Hook

You can save quite a bit of time by using a crochet hook instead of the right hand knitting needle when binding off. Here's how:

Using a crochet hook about the same size as your knitting needles, hook the first loop on the left-hand needle and knit the stitch onto the hook. Knit the next stitch onto the hook and pull the new stitch through the stitch already on the hook. Continue across the row pulling your new stitch through the one already on the crochet hook. At the end of the row, pull yarn through the last loop on the hook. It makes a nice even edge and is a major time saver.

Long Tail Cast-On - Which Strand?

If you use a long tail cast-on, do you ever accidentally pick up the tail end to knit only to find out half a row later that you are using the wrong strand? When you finish your cast-on, tie a slip knot in the tail or else wrap it into a butterfly knot so you can tell immediately which is the strand for knitting.

Placing Buttonholes Evenly

To evenly mark buttonholes, use about a 12-15” length of 1” wide elastic. Lay it out without stretching and using a permanent marker, mark a dot every inch leaving an inch selvedge on each end. To use it, use a binder clip to fasten one end of the elastic to a ruler or yardstick. Stretch it to the needed length and clip the other end. Now you have a movable ruler marked to your buttonhole specifications. I do recommend marking the sweater (clips or the like) right away to avoid errors in the event that the binder clips slip. When stretched, the dots will mark your buttonholes evenly down the length of front band so just use a clip stitch marker at the spots where the dots are.

By the way, to remember which side for buttonholes, use this saying:
Holy Moly! Girls are always right and boys are always out in left field. (The holes would be on the right for girls.)

Seaming Pieces Together

A good way hold the pieces together when sewing the finishing seams on a sweater (and to match up seam lengths) is to use the old fashioned wooden spring type clothes pins. You could also use the miniature ones that you can find in the dolls and toys departments of craft or toy stores.

Finishing Hat or Cap Tops

When your project ends with decreasing stitches fast like the top of a cap, the fingers of a glove or the top of an ornament, here’s how to make the finish look smoother. When the pattern says to thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight, run your yarn through those stitches a second time and then pull tight from the inside. The double yarn will help fill the loops of those stitches so they don’t gap, make the closing stronger and also help the closing circle lie flat. Another trick to use a smaller needle for the last few rounds of decrease.

Edge Stitches

To create a smooth edge on items like scarves and the front finished edge of a sweater, knit your rows this way. Knit the last stitch in the row through the back loop. Then slip the first stitch of the next as if to purl.
Another way to have a pretty edge is to add two stitches to the pattern and then slip the first stitch of every row knitwise and purl the last stitch on every row.

Natural Fibers

Here's a quick tutorial on natural fibers:
Wool comes from a domesticated sheep. Wool accepts dye well, is flame-retardant by nature, remains warm even when wet, sheds water better than other yarns. Natural wool should be hand-washed. 'Superwash' wool has been treated to allow machine washing. Wool will usually resume its proper shape when washed correctly; if it is mistreated and washed in too-hot water, it will shrink or felt.

Mohair comes from an Angora goat. Mohair is durable, sheds dirt, dyes well and does not felt easily. Despite its hardiness, it is usually spun into knitting yarn used for fluffy garments and scarves. This knitting yarn is abraded, roughing its fibers to create that 'fuzzy' look.

Angora comes from rabbits. Fabric made from this yarn is inelastic, very fluffy, soft and warm.

Silk is the yarn produced by silk moths. Silk knitting yarn is made from damaged silk cocoons and broken fibers. 'Raw' silk still has the original moth secretions in it. 'Tussah,' silk obtained from wild moths is brown. The food fed to domesticated moths determines their silk's natural color; this can white, green or yellow. Silk retains heat, absorbs moisture, pills less than wool, is very strong and very stable when knit, neither shrinking or stretching.

Cashmere comes from the undercoat of a Cashmere goat. It is so expensive because only a few ounces are obtained from each goat per year. It is such a delicate yarn, more fragile than wool and more susceptible to abrasion, that it is usually blended with wool to make it more durable.

Camel comes from the two-humped or Bactrian camel. Camel hair cannot be bleached, so it is either used undyed or dyed a darker color. It is lightweight and fragile.

Vicuna comes from the vicuna, a South American relative of the camel. They are rounded up once a year and shorn like llamas or sheep; their hair is finer than any other animal yarn.

Alpaca is a smaller relative of the llama but its hair is more commercially valuable. Knitting yarn does not felt or pill easily. It comes in fifteen natural colors (as do the alpacas) and is denser than wool . The undercoat of a llama is very similar to alpaca hair.

Qiviut (kiv-ee-uht) the yarn itself is very hard to find. It comes from a musk ox and resembles pale gray cashmere but does not shrink.

Underarm Stitches

To avoid holes at the underarm seam of a sweater, use a smaller needle to pick up stitches at the underarm. Pick up one stitch in each of the extra cast on stitches (if knitted in the round) or the bound off underarm stitches (if knitted flat). Then decrease in your first row of knitting if you have more stitches than needed for your pattern.

Fringe

If you are adding fringe to a poncho, afghan or a scarf or whatever your project is, here’s an easy way to cut even lengths of yarn. Cut an empty paper towel tube to the length of fringe that you need (mark the tube length the future use). Then cut a 1" length-wise wedge out of the tube. Wrap your yarn end-to-end around the tube. The curve will keep your yarn from sliding out or off the edges. Cut the ends of the wrapped strands and you’ll have the proper length of fringe. You can store several different lengths of tubes inside each other so you always have the right length to cut fringe.

Custom Gift Tags

To make a custom gift tag for a special item you've knit, cut a piece of white cardstock into the shape of the item (such as a sweater shape, mitten shape, sock shape, etc.). Then wrap extra yarn from the project around your gift tag so if it ever needs repairs, the recipient has matching yarn. Punch a hole in the top and attach to your gift.

Handy Measuring

If you are traveling and working on a project, sometimes you don’t have a ruler with you. Use a dollar bill instead. The length is 6” so folded in half makes a 3” ruler for ribbing. In thirds you have a 2” and 4” ruler. If you have a full page pattern, you will know 8-1/2” and 11”.

Cast On for Double Pointed Needles

If you are trying to cast-on using double pointed needles and the instructions say to “divide stitches evenly”, it’s not an easy task. So that the needles don’t slide out while you are manipulating those stitches and needles, use small rubber bands. As you distribute the stitches, put the rubber bands on both ends of the needles to keep things from slipping. When you knit the first round, remove the bands as you go keep them on for a few rounds until the needles will stay as you knit.

Chemo Cap Sizing

Here's a guide to head sizing for making chemo caps. There are lots of free patterns avaiable via the web. Try www.ravelry.com, http://www.freepatterns.com/ or www.headhuggers.org for patterns.
SIZE AROUND HEAD FRONT TO BACK EAR TO EAR
Extra Petite 20-1/2” 12” 10-1/2” to 11”
Petite 21” 12-1/2” 11” to 11-1/2”
Average 21-1/2” 12-1/2” to 13” 11-1/2” to 12”
Large 23 13”+ 12”+

SIZE AROUND HEAD FRONT TO BACK EAR TO EAR
Extra Petite 20-1/2” 12” 10-1/2” to 11”
Petite 21” 12-1/2” 11” to 11-1/2”
Average 21-1/2” 12-1/2” to 13” 11-1/2” to 12”
Large 23” 13”+ 12”+

Sleeves First

One way to knit a sweater and not end up with a vest is to knit the sleeves first. A sleeve can also be used as your gauge swatch if you are the type that doesn’t believe in swatches. It’s much easier to take out a few inches of sleeve than to end up with a garment that doesn’t fit.

Make One Stitches, Increases

If you have a hard time remembering which way to insert your needle when making a make 1 left or make 1 right (M1L, M1R), here’s a saying to help you.
“I left through the front door but I’ll be right back.”
Therefore, a left slanting increase (M1L) tells you to put your needle through the front of the stitch and a right slanting increase (M1R) tells you to put your needle through the back of the stitch to start the increase.

Unisex Baby Sweaters

When making baby sweaters in colors that can be worn easily by either sex, knit buttonholes on both sides of the front band. Sew buttons over the holes on the appropriate side once you know the sex of the baby. If it’s handed down, the buttons can always be moved to the other front band.

Buttonholes

To keep buttonholes neat, when you are finished with your garment, separate yarn plies and use one or two plies to sew a buttonhole stitch around the buttonhole. Also use separated yarn plies to sew on the buttons.

Measuring

When you make a copy of the pattern so you can highlight as you finish sections, add a tape measure in the margin when you make your copy so you always have one available and handy as you knit.

Cap Blocking

To shape a knitted hat, blow up a balloon to a size to fill out the hat and then spray it with a water atomizer. Let it dry before removing from the balloon. Blocking the easy way!

Using Up Yarn Scraps

If you are making striped mittens for kids and trying to use up odd ends of yarn, knit both mittens at the same time and use both ends of your yarn to divide it equally. That way you'll have enough to do both mittens without running out of a particular color of yarn.

Changing or Customizing Patterns

If you have a pattern that you’ve made some modifications to or use again and again, here’s a way to make life easy for you. Type the pattern into a Word document (just copy and paste if it’s an online pattern). Make your notes and changes to the pattern in a DIFFERENT COLORED FONT from the original pattern. Highlight the instructions for different sizes making yourself a key color chart on each page and if there are some complicated instructions (like increase every 4th row and at the same time, cable or whatever), add a table to your document with row numbers so you can check them off as you do the instruction. When you need to use the pattern again, just print another copy, and another copy, and another copy. . . . .

Multiple Strands

If you are working with 2 or 3 strands of yarn, before you start the project thread all strands through a small plastic ring like a cafe curtain hanger. This will keep all the yarn strands flowing smoothly and together. It also lets you be sure that you are always using the same number of strands.

Clip Marker Use

If you don't have pen and paper to jot down which row you are on in a pattern and aren’t using index cards, an easy marker is to use the clip type stitch markers or coiless safety pins. If your next row is row 7 in the pattern, clip the marker on the 7th stitch on your needle. When you start knitting again, you don't have to try and figure out where you were.

Shaping Hats

Another way to shape knitted hats: place the finished hat over an upturned colander which is placed over a pot of boiling water on the stove. Let the steam shape your hat for you.

Ribbing

Make sure you bring the yarn forward ALL THE WAY when changing from knit to purl stitches. If you notice that you have a bit of a gap after a knit stitch which is before a purl stitch (such as uneven K1, P1 ribbing), give an extra tug when you bring the yarn forward to close that gap.

Attaching Fringe

To attach fringe, use a latch hook tool (like the ones that come with latch hook rug kits). It will pull the yarn through the hole smoothly and not split your yarn.

Self-Striping Variegated Yarns

If you are using variegated yarn, always pull the yarn from the skein in the same way (i.e., from the center or from the outside) throughout the project. With many variegated yarns there's a distinct difference in how the color patterning appears.

Reversible Patterns

If you are knitting a reversible pattern such as in a scarf and have trouble remembering if you are on a right or wrong side row, this tip is for you. If you use a long-tail cast on, the tail end of your cast on yarn will be at the tip of your needle when you are on the right side of your work and it will be an odd numbered row. When that tail is at the far end of the needle, you are on a even numbered row and the wrong side of your project. You could also place a clip marker on the right side start of the row.

Decreases

If you need to make paired decreases like in sweater sleeves and if you are knitting circular, place one color marker at the seamline and different colored markers at the end of the stitches that will not be decreased. It makes it easy to see how many decreases you have left and you can easily count to make sure you did the decreases on both sides of the center marker.

Picking Up Stitches

If you need to pick up stitches, such as around a neckline, the easiest way is to use a crochet hook and then slip the stitches on the knitting needle. Remember they will be twisted on the hook so make sure you slip them to the needle going through the back.

Some Handy Measurements

Some handy measurements for knitting on the go:
• One Inch is roughly the measure from the top knuckle on your thumb to your thumb tip.
• Four Inches is roughly the width of most people's hands measured across your bottom knuckles (without the thumb).
• Eight Inches is an average thumb tip to little finger tip span.
• One Yard is roughly the distance from your nose, to the bent fingers on your outstretched hand. This is an easy way to estimate yards of cord, fabric or ribbon.
• From your bent elbow to the tips of your fingers is between 15 and 18 inches for most people.
• A woman's size 9 foot (US and Canada) is usually ten inches long.
• A standard business card is 3-1/2 inches long and 2 inches high.
• Standard credit cards are 3-3/8 inches by 2-1/8 inches.
• A US dollar bill is 2-7/12 inches tall by 6-1/6 inches long.
• A one cent coin is 3/4 of an inch across.
• A quarter is just under one inch across.
• Standard modern doors are six foot six to six foot eight inches high.
• A dining room table surface is usually 30 inches from the ground.
• The seat of a dining room chair is usually 15-17 inches from the floor.

Adding Beads to Knitting

Knit the stitch you want the bead on and then slip that loop into the center of the bead and put the loop on the right hand needle. This method will always have your bead facing forward in the exact spot you want. You also don’t have to thread them onto your yarn beforehand. To make life easy, use a tiny crochet hook that fits through the center of the bead to pull the loop through the bead.

Holding Stitches

When a pattern calls for putting stitches on a stitch holder and you don't have one, use a double pointed needle instead. Stretch a rubber band figure 8 like around the ends of the needle to hold the stitches. When you come back to knit those stitches, they are already on a needle ready to knit.

What Round Was I Knitting?

To keep track of rows and/or increases and decreases when knitting in the round, knit the same number of stitches past the beginning of round marker as the row you are on. So if you are on row 5, knit 5 stitches of that round so when you pick up your work again, you can count the stitches beyond the marker and know what row you should be knitting.

Knitting Magazines

If you've started to accumulate knitting magazines, here's a way to find the pattern you know youro have a year or two later. When you receive the magazine, make a copy of the cover and the table of contents and keep it in a 3 ring binder. If it's a magazine like Creative Knitting, make a copy of the back inside page where there are photos of all the projects in that magazine. Make a tabbed divider for each magazine subscription you own or else keep a separate 3 ring binder for each subscription so you could store multiple years in one binder.

To take this system a step further, note on the table of contents which patterns interested you and for whom you intended to make the item. You could also note yardage needed and type of yarn used (from your stash of course!) so when you are ready to start a new project, it’s easy to begin. Another option is to use the Ravelry Library and build your collection electronically with links to the various websites of those magazines.

Saving Your Socks Heels and Toes

Use a strand of silk sewing thread with your sock yarn when knitting socks to help keep heels and toes from wearing out. You could also use wooly nylon thread.

Taming Yarn While Traveling

If you have a shake/mocha/latte cup that has the clear plastic dome with the center hole in it, recycle it as a yarn ball holder when you are traveling. They are the perfect size to hold a smaller ball of yarn that you’re working with - just run the yarn end out thru the top hole, and that little ball of yarn can just bobble all around inside the cup and never fall out.

Ripping Out & Picking Up Stockinette Rows

If you need to rip out stockinette stitches more rows back than you want to tink, insert a smaller sized needle into the front leg (right half) of each stitch in the last correct row so those stitches will be aligned right on the needles when you start knitting again. Even if you happen to pick up the back leg of the stitches, just knit into the back or realign the stitch on the needle when you start knitting that row again.

Crochet Cast-On

This crochet cast on method is easy and works well for most applications. One advantage to crochet cast on is there is no right or wrong side unlike the knitted on, cable and long tail cast on methods.

An easy way to do this cast on method is to make a slip knot with yarn and place it on the crochet hook. With yarn going under your knitting needle, draw up a loop using the crochet hook. This will create a stitch on the knitting needle. Continue to draw up loops until there is 1 less number of required sts are on needle. Put remain loop from crochet hook on to the knitting needle.

Continental Ribbing

Ribbing on European made clothing usually has a continental rib. To do this, knit into the back of the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches normally when working a k1, p1 rib. This is called a "twisted rib" and has a little more elasticity and a more raised rib.

Keeping Track of Increases With Split Ring Markers

If you need to keep track of increases or decreases when knitting sleeves or other shaped areas, link together split ring markers. If you increase or decrease on the 6th row, use 5 green markers and 1 red marker and link together to make a circle. Every time you knit a row, move so the next marker is on your needle. When you get to the red marker, it's time to knit the increase or decrease. Hopefully with this aid you won't forget which row you are on when you put down your knitting.

Right Direction for Fiber

When you are working with yarn and threads, they have a "right" way direction. When you pull the yarn from the middle of the skein, the threads coming from the yarn are going downward when you run your fingers down the yarn and will feel smooth. This is usually the right direction to work with the yarn.
If you take the other tail and run your fingers down the yarn you will see lots of tails sticking out and it will feel a little rougher. Using the yarn in this direction makes it more likely to twist and knot. Yarn can be used in either direction, just be aware and always use the yarn in the same direction for multiple skein projects.

Making Ribbing Look Seamless

To make separate piece ribbing seams look like they were knitted in the round, make sure you knit your ribbing this way.
•For K1, P1 ribbing, use an even number of stitches. On wrong side rows, P1, K1 to the last 2 stitches and end with P2. On the right side rows, start with K2 and then repeat the P1, K1 ribbing to the end of the row.
•For K2, P2 ribbing, use a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2 stitches (i.e., 42 stitches). Knit the wrong side rows using P1 to start, then repeat the K2, P2 ribbing to the last stitch and end with a P1. The right side rows start with K1 and then repeat the P2, K2 ribbing to the last stitch which will be a K1.

When sewn together, the seam will be invisible.

Fun Fur Scarves

If you make fun fur scarves, use a soft-bristle brush, like a nail brush, to gently go over each stitch several times in different directions when you have finished knitting. The fur will fluff up and make your project really soft, full and fluffy

Picking Up Neckline or Armhole Stitches

When picking up stitches on a neckline or armhole, pick up as many stitches as necessary to make the neckline/armhole look neat without any holes. Then make sure your stitch count is evenly divided by placing markers at intervals and counting the stitches between each set of markers. Adjust the number of stitches accordingly on the first row or round.

Mesh Yarn Bras

If you like to use a yarn "bra" but want to save your $$ for purchasing yarn instead, use the plastic mesh bags that veggies are packaged in. Cut off the tag end and fit the mesh over your yarn. They are especially useful if you are using 2 strands of yarn and want to keep them together.

Remembering Easy Patterns

If you are knitting a 1 or 2 row pattern that you only work on occasionally (like the project you keep handy for times when you have to wait), tape the pattern around the needle close to the size cap end of your straight needles so you can easily remember it whenever you get a chance to work on that project.

Mobile Patterns

For those of you who have an Ipod or email ready mobile phone, scan or download your pattern, email it to yourself and carry it on your phone. Never torn, crumpled or lost and makes it super mobile!

What Size Needle Do I Use For This Yarn?

If you are trying to figure out what gauge you would get by combining two or three yarns, here are a couple of tricks to help.
Math version: Add the stitches per inch together of the proposed yarns, and divide by 3.
Example 1: Combine 2 strands of fingering (sock). If each strand of fingering knits up at 7 st/in, the math is 7+7=14, 14/3=4.7, so the combined yarns are about worsted weight. If each strand of fingering knits up at 8 st/in, the math is 8 + 8 = 16, 16/3=5.3 so the yarns combine to a DK weight.
Example 2: Combine 1 strand of worsted and 1 strand of fingering. The worsted knits at 5 st/in and the fingering at 8 st/in. The math: 5 + 8 = 13; 13/3 = 4.3 st/in or a nice Aran equivalent.
Hands-on version: Take a knit gauge and thread the selected yarns through the hole which just fits the yarn. This gives you the needle size to use.

Which Needles Should I Use?

Bamboo needles. Bamboo is warm to the touch, strong, and tends to be lighter than aluminum. As bamboo has a slight grip, knitted stitches remain in place and bamboo makes for an excellent beginner needle. The material also lends itself to working will with arthritic hands. Bamboo needles are excellent for all types of yarn, especially smoother and lighter weight yarns. Bamboo needles are more flexible than metal, but less than casein or plastic needles. In smaller sizes, however, bamboo can bend or break.

Metal needles are the heaviest needles, but are stronger and do not easily bend. Metal needles are cold to the touch and slippery. More experienced knitters sometimes prefer them, because the stitches move quickly on the highly polished surface. These are not the best needles for beginning knitters, as stitches can quickly slip off the needle's tip. Metal needles are good for all types of yarn types and weights, especially wool, wool blends, and acrylic. The most common types of metal needles are aluminum, steel, and nickel-plated. Newer stainless steel needles like the Signature and Addi Turbo’s are now available.

Plastic needles used to be readily available and very popular. They are smooth, sleek, and stitches move quickly. Plastic needles are very flexible. Larger size needles are often made from plastic to reduce their weight. Plastic needles are excellent for all types of yarn and yarn weights.

Wooden needles are smooth but not slippery, making them a great choice for beginning knitters and when using slippery yarns. The finishes are different depending on the brand. These needles come in a variety of woods, the best being made of hardwoods. In very small sizes, like bamboo, wooden needles can break disappointingly easily.

Finding Knitting Shops Worldwide

In case you happen to be traveling, here’s a link to knitting stores all over the world (also available on your I-phone too!). Click on the title to find a location near you.

Finishing Tops of Caps

When you get to the top of a hat and it seems to puff up with too much yarn and stitches, use a smaller needle for the last few rounds.

Keeping Track of Increases

To help keep track of how many increases you have completed in a row, slip an open or clip type marker on each increased stitch. It’s easy to count the markers to know how many increases you have completed.